Beauty Standards: Post-cancer Beauty Is Layered

Sheri Stroh knows skin. As one of Canada’s top makeup artists, she’s worked on a “who’s who” of famous faces, including Selena Gomez, the band Manëskin, Sarah Raffertey and Tessa Virtue. Stroh also knows cancer. She was diagnosed at 36 with stage-2 breast cancer that resulted in a mastectomy and chemo over a dozen years ago. A lot may have changed in those intervening years, but one thing that has remained constant for Stroh is her commitment to what she dubs “happy skin.” 

Life after breast cancer treatment.

Skin care after breast cancer treatment 

Dry skin and a flaky scalp – a side effect of her chemo treatments –  prompted Sheri to find a gentler approach to her skin routine. And she’s stuck with it. “I found my skin was happier, even after treatment. So, it’s become a mainstay for me.” 

Aside from needing to address dry skin issues, Stroh didn’t have any lingering skin challenges because of her cancer or treatment plan. 

That’s a pretty typical experience for those who’ve gone through breast cancer treatment, says Cheryl Rosen, MD, FRCPC, head of the Division of Dermatology, Toronto Western Hospital and University Health Network Hospitals, and professor at the department of Medicine at the University of Toronto. “Generally speaking, after chemotherapy, you can go back to your normal routine.” A cancer diagnosis changes so much in your life, but at least when it comes to your skin, a healthy, glowing complexion is well within your reach.  

Eating for you: Finding the goodness in food after breast cancer treatment.

How to care for skin: post-cancer treatment beauty regime 

If you don’t already have a regular routine, we can help you on your journey with these easy and basic steps.  

Healthy skin starts with getting intimate with your hide, says Dr. Katie Beleznay MD, FRCPC, clinical instructor at the department of dermatology at UBC, practising at Humphrey & Beleznay Cosmetic Dermatology in Vancouver. “If you are someone who deals with skin flare ups, then try to identify triggers that can be managed or eliminated, which may include avoiding things such as fragrance.”  

Stroh echoes this advice: “Fragrance can bother some people. It doesn’t really bother my skin, but if you notice that anything is getting irritated or dry, you may want to look for calming products.” Stroh suggests checking out what she dubs “French pharmacy brands,” which are typically fragrance-free and formulated for sensitive skin. Products under the Avene or La Roche Posay brands could be a good starting point. Look for products developed for “sensitive” or “dry” skin. 

Self-care for mental health and breast cancer: Can meditation help?

Step 1: Cleansing 

For a gentle approach to cleansing, look for a cream or milk cleanser, says Graydon Moffat, founder of Graydon Skincare, a natural skincare line. “Foaming cleansers might be more popular in humid months, but the milky cleanser is often a person’s best friend come fall because it can really help to gently prime your skin to be able to absorb more hydration,” says Moffat. And when starting a new routine, less is always more, she confirms. As with anything in life, it’s always best to introduce new things slowly. 

Step 2: Moisturize 

If real estate is all about location, location, location, then healthy skin is all about hydration, hydration, hydration. For starters, moisturized skin looks dewy, but more importantly, hydration helps create a strong skin barrier. This protects it from outside aggressors, which could irritate or harm skin. The Canadian Dermatology Association (CDA) has created a Skin Health Program (SHP) that recognizes products that are fragrance-free or unscented, have low potential for irritation and do not contain the most common allergens. You can check out the CDA-approved list.   

Step 3: Serums 

A good serum that includes a few active ingredients can do a lot of the heavy lifting, kick-starting your skin to work a little harder. Stroh likes to add “actives” and “antioxidants” to her skincare routine, and serums are perfect for that. But exercise restraint. “I try to keep a balance so that my skin stays happy.” For instance, if you want to try a retinol, start by using it every three or four days and only at night. “Low and slow” is a good way to introduce any new product into your life. 

Step 4: SPF 

“No skincare routine is complete without SPF,” says Dr. Beleznay. “I recommend using an SPF of at least 30 or higher every day. The benefits of SPF are vast, from preventing skin cancer to helping prevent pigmentation and signs of aging. A moisturizer with SPF can be suitable as your main source of face sun protection if it has SPF 30+ and you apply the right amount – same as you would a pure sunscreen.”  

According to the CDA, “A small percentage of people taking over-the-counter or prescription medications find that their skin becomes overly sensitive to the sun. They can get serious skin damage, including sunburn, blisters, rashes or swelling when out in the sun. Some medications that may set off these reactions include antibiotics (tetracycline and sulfa drugs), diuretics (water pills), antidepressants, anti-psychotics, anti-diabetic preparations and some acne drugs containing vitamin A or its derivatives. When a medication has been prescribed, check the common side effects with your doctor.” 

If you need a starting point, talk to your doctor about potential side effects with any meds you have been prescribed. And, if you’d just like some recommendations, consider CDA-approved SPFs

Sexcetera: What happens to sexual identity for those with breast cancer?

Hair & nail care after breast cancer treatment 

While most women notice nail changes during chemo, Stroh was able to minimize any damage with a consistent routine. “I just kept them really moisturized during treatment. I used hand cream all the time, as well as nail oil. If I was watching TV, or just sitting around, I just kept massaging my hands and nails. I also used a clear coat of a nail strengthener all the time.” It’s a routine that she keeps up with to this day, and she says it “makes a huge difference.” 

As for hair, when it starts to grow back after treatment, you may notice changes, says Dr. Rosen. “Some people do report that the texture of their hair is different when it grows back.” 

Stroh noticed changes, but only initially. “My hair came back curly. But once I cut it, the curl was mostly gone. I think the majority of women have a similar experience.” 

If your hair grows in with a different texture than you’ve been used to, talk to your local hair pro for advice. For someone with typically straight hair, dealing with a head full of frizz or out-of-control curls can be a frustrating experience. But there’s a plethora of products on the market today that can help with any texture or dullness concerns. If you can’t get to your local hair stylist for an appointment, start by looking for product labels with key words such “anti-frizz,” “smoothing” or “shine-enhancing.”  

If you notice flakes, as Stroh did during chemo, massaging your scalp can help. “I put some oil on my scalp and really massaged it in, then took a washcloth and just kind of wiped away the flakes. It wasn’t a recurring thing, though. I never had scalp issues after treatment.” 

If you do continue to have a dry, flaky scalp post-treatment, look for products that treat sensitive scalps. You can also try a medicated shampoo that includes pyrithione zinc or ketoconazole to kill dandruff, or fluocinolone, a corticosteroid that helps with itching, flaking and irritation. 

What makes uou stronger: Getting fit after breast cancer treatment.

Skin, hair and nails 

Beauty after breast cancer treatment is all about taking care of the skin, from head to nails. If you find that you’re unable to fix any dryness or dullness with the above steps, speak to a dermatologist about what you’re using.

If beauty is skin deep, then start your beauty routine there.